In the heart of the Gaelic speaking islands, off Scotland, holidays here are where you'll enjoy Hebridean hospitality. See tourism information elsewhere on this site.
Lewis and Harris are famed for the almost white, sandy beaches that are formed by tiny grains of shells, crushed by the Atlantic Ocean and carried by the Gulf Stream from the West Indies.
Closest to our holiday hotel on the Isle of Lewis is Bayble, but you’ll want to travel a little further to visit others, too.
Tolsta, is just the other side of Broad Bay, and is accessed via Stornoway, either by car or, if you fancy the walk at the other end, by bus. There you will two magnificent soft sand beaches, the first, backed by sand dunes, being very long (we guess over a mile) and the other being almost encircled by high cliffs.
Which beach is the best is a matter for debate, but Bosta must be high on the list. It’s at the northern tip of Great Bernera and around 45 minutes drive away, through magnificent, rugged countryside. This is a place where, on a still, warm day, you could be forgiven for thinking you were basking in the Indian Ocean.
A little beyond the turn off to Bosta, you’ll find Uig beach, probably the largest expanse of soft sand on the island.
Closer to home, on the east coast, are Dhail Beag and Dhail Mor - well worth a visit and noted for their surf.
For a longer trip, drive down to Harris and explore the beaches alongside the road South from Tarbert - it will take you around 90 minutes to get there and it’s a rewarding end to a journey through wonderful, mountainous countryside.
Stornoway is our fascinating, busy, local town, reached by car in around 15 minutes or by bus in about 30 minutes.
Entirely unpretentious, the town exists mainly as a supply point for the 20,000 island population, as a ferry port, as a fishing port and as an administrative centre.
There is an eclectic mix of architecture, ranging from traditional Scottish style gentlemens’ residences, the ultra modern new arts and sports centres to brightly painted new mews houses.
While the industrial area at the edge of the town is grey and uninteresting, the town centre is bright, cheerful and bustling.
The shops are mostly privately owned, so the range of products on offer is much more individual than you find on the multiple store dominated high streets of the mainland. There are book and record shops, a locally owned department store, a fabulous jewellery and gift shop, packed with island crafted silver, an excellent tourist information office and much more. Above all, our experience of shopping here is that it’s a much friendlier activity than on the mainland. Stornoway is also the main centre for eating out in the area. More information on the shopping page and on the eating out page.
At the harbour, fishing boats unload their catches, pleasure yachts and small cruise ships visit and the ferry brings vistors and essential lorry loads of supplies.
When you tire of mooching around the streets and quay sides, take refreshment, perhaps at the excellent library coffee shop, which offers a choice to rival any you’d find in a fashionable capital, or at the Woodland Centre - just a stroll from the town centre - where you can sit out in the sun and enjoy the views. While there, you can enjoy a walk in the grounds of Lews Castle, a large house built for Lord Leverhulme, which is surrounded by extensive woodland and parkland.
While the spring and summer weather here can be much sunnier and drier than some people expect, if it does rain during your stay, why not take the opportunity to visit the interesting local museum, enjoy activities at the new sports centre?
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At Callanish (Gaelic - Calanais) fields were first cultivated before 4000BC. However, farming on the earthen ridges below the Standing Stones probably started much later.
The stones at Callanish are said to predate Stonehenge.
Stone circles on earth embankments were built around 3000 BC and it’s thought that a structure was built at about that time, which would be surrounded by the ring at Callanish.
The Calanais stones are not in a perfect circle, but they are symmetrical, running along an East West line, which dissects the central stone. The Western section ia a more or less exact semi-circle, while the Eastern section is flatter.
The avenue may have been ceremonial or in some way astronomical, possibly aligning with lunar movements.
Whatever the truth of the Callanish stones, which you will find explored at the excellent visitor centre, they are a highlight of any trip to the Isle of Lewis. Their elevated position also provides dramatic views over the surrounding countryside.
From our hotelCallanish, at about 45 minutes drive, is an easy excursion by car and may be combined with a visit to the beaches of the West coast.Return to previous page
The coast that runs down the West side of Lewis, from Ness to Carloway, is punctuated by numerous villages and is host to several pleasant beaches.
It is reached from Stornoway by driving across Barvas Moor, a wild area of rolling, heather clad hillsides.
At Barvas village (Gaelic - Bharabhas), you have the choice of turning right towards Ness, or left towards Carloway.
Should you take the right turn, be sure to visit the Butt of Lewis, the most Northerly point of the island, and the pleasant, dune backed beaches reached by turning at Lionel.
Following the road south from Barvas, at Arnol you can visit the Black House Museum, which offers an interesting view of traditional croft living and a walk for the village down to the shore reaches a mixed sand, shingle and pebble beach, with panoramic views across Loch Arnol.
Continuing through Bragar - note the whalebone arch - Shawbost is home to a Tweed Mill and an interesting village shop - turn right off the main road at the sign and you’ll find the shop on your left - the amazing mix of products makes it well worth popping in for a loaf of bread, a tin of paint or a pair of wellington boots!
On this road, don’t miss the chance to visit Dhail Beag and Dhail Mhor, both being extremely picturesque beaches.
A little further on, the Blackhouse Village affords a glimpse of life gone by and the hotel just after Carloway may offer you welcome refreshment.
No cowboys in this Wild West, just craggy hills and glens, cliffs where the Atlantic thunders against the rocks, plus a selection of superb beaches.
Take the Timsgarry / Uig road off the route that leads from Stornoway to Callanish and enjoy an unhurried drive through dramatic countryside.
You can divert Northwards to Great Bernera, visiting Bosta beach, then return to the route.
At Meobhaig, take the short, circular route off to the right, to see Traigh na Beirigh, a wonderful expanse of sand, backed by dunes, then return to the Timsgarry road.
Prepare yourslf for a visual sensation as Uig beach comes into view. Some two mile long and up to half a mile wide, this is for many the jewel of the Hebrides. Continue on the Breanais road for a couple of miles and you’ll see a car park indicated to the road. Don’t miss the opportunity to stop and walk upon the sands, for this is a truly special place.
If you’re not worn out by now, follow the road to it’s end, for spectacular coastal views of the steep cliffs - on a windy, rainy day you will realise the power of the waves!
The Isle of Harris is not actually a separate island, as only the Southern portion is virtually detached from Lewis.
It has, however, a distinctly different character. At the northern end, you pass through dramatic, rocky mountains on the road from Stornoway. While the highest peak, An Cliseam, is not particularly tall by Scottish standards, at 799 metres, the height above the surrounding, low lying Lewisian countryside makes it seem much more so.
Tarbert is around an hour’s drive from Stornoway, but rather than driving there directly, it’s worth taking a detour along the B887 to Hushinish, to see the beach and perhaps to visit the glens near Torga Mhor mountain, where you may be lucky enough to see eagles soar.
South of Tarbert, the landscape changes. While it remains extremely rocky, it is at a much lower level. If you have the time, take the circular route off to the left, through Manish and Finsbay to Rodel, where St Clements Church is an important visitor attraction.
As you head back north up the main road from Leverburgh, there are further superb, West facing beaches to explore. If you have brought your clubs, the Harris golf club presents unusual challenges ad spectacular views alongside the coastline.
Eating out on the Isle of Lewis centres mainly on Stornoway, although there are a number of hotels and restaurants scattered around the island.
Among the varied menus, at prices to suit all pockets, you’ll find superb fresh fish dishes. The Hebrides are renowned for prawn catches and langoustines taken from lobster pots, which have not suffered the trauma
of trawling in nets, taste absolutely wonderful. Fresh monkfish is excellent value here, likewise freshly caught cod and haddock.
Take stroll around the town and check out the menus. Select from Scottish, Balti, Chinese, Thai and
International cuisine - the choice is wide and value excellent.
If you’re a holiday shopaholic, prepare for an interesting experience.
Forget high street chain stores, for we have only a few.
Instead, you will find independently owned shops, where products have been selected by the owners, to suit the individual needs of local residents and visitors.
This is no means an exhaustive list and is in no way intended to suggest that other shops are not worth a visit - just a sample to whet your appetite.
Murdo Macleans - the Stornoway department store, with quality decorative objects, fabrics, clothing and shoes.
The Lewis Loom Centre - an Aladdin’s cave of Harris Tweeds, jackets, coats, scarves and even tweed to buy off the roll and take back to your tailor. Amazing prices.
Hebridean Jewellery - manufacturers of beautiful silver jewellery with Celtic infuences - you could buy all your presents for Christmas here and save the bother of shopping in December!
The Fishermens’ Co-operative - outdoor clothes ranging from practical and inexpensive to ‘designer names’ at prices we’ve not seen on the mainland. Plus all kinds of chandlery items and yellow wellingtons galore! Fonn - a super little musical instrument shop, where you get personal attention.
Besides these, browse the boutiques, book shops, kilt makers, Celtic record shop and quite a few more. And if you really want multiples, there’s a Co-op superstore and a Somerfields for groceries, Boots, Superdrug and Woolworths, too.
One of the attractions of the Outer Hebrides is the remoteness of the islands - a place where you can feel a million miles from the hustle and bustle of town and city life on the mainland, a place where complete strangers greet each other warmly, a place where drivers give a friendly wave to pedestrians - there’s simply no other place quite like it.
Travelling here is not, however, too difficult.
By road, we are a long way from pretty well everywhere, but there is motorway and dual carriageway virtually all the way from the South of England to Perth, then the excellent, wide, much improved A9 to Inverness. Just over an hour from Inverness to Ullapool and you join the Calmac ferry (www.calmac.co.uk) for a 2.75 hour crossing, during which you can relax, watch TV, eat a meal, or simply enjoy the scenery passing by as you travel along the sea loch towards Lewis.
By air, British Airways, BMI and Highland Airways all operate services into Stornoway airport, which is modern and well equipped. You can book flights through to Stornoway from many regional airports with BA and BMI, at reasonable prices. Easyjet and Eastern Airways fly to Inverness, where you can connect with Highland Airways. Car hire is available at sensible rates and it is even a realistic proposition to use the buses here, which are plentiful and reach pretty well the entire island.
